How should real mozzarella be? It must have a slightly elastic consistency, be a little fibrous, white in color and with a smooth surface. So explain the experts in the sector, according to whom it is not quality mozzarella if it does not have the classic drop on the surface, a drop that should guarantee the correctness of the preparation process of this extraordinary dairy product. Great cheese of the Italian tradition, one of the main symbols of gastronomy of our country, speaking of mozzarella is, everywhere in the world, speaking Italian. Mozzarella is the undisputed queen of sales abroad, if it is exported (the latest definitive data from Assolatte on an Istat basis refer to 2018) just under 100 thousand tons per year. Grana Padano and Parmigiano Reggiano together reached a total of 130 tons. And even if it is now produced from north to south of Italy, certainly the southern mozzarella is the authentic Italian excellence.
Fior di latte and buffalo, the history of mozzarella between Molise and Campania
On the other hand, according to tradition, history confirms that the south was the birthplace of the most famous of Italian cheeses. On the axis Molise-Campania. In fact, the Benedictine monks of the Abbey of Castel San Vincenzo al Volturno, in the province of Isernia, would have been the holders of the art of mozzarella production. In the XNUMXth century the monks fled from Molise due to the attack on the monastery by the Arabs in the service of the Duke-Bishop of Naples, Atanasio II. They moved to Capua where they founded the monastery of San Lorenzo and where they exported the art of mozzarella production.
A XNUMXth century document informs us that the monks used to offer a piece of this cheese on the occasion of particular religious holidays. They called it "cropped" or "provatura". We explicitly speak of mozzarella only in the XNUMXth century in the cookbook of Bartolomeo Scappi, a cook who worked at the papal court. Even today in Molise they are mainly prepared cow's milk mozzarella, also called fior di latte, of which this region would therefore have the paternity. In Campania, on the other hand, the paternity of the mozzarella di bufala with the arrival and presence, around the thirteenth century, of the first buffaloes in Italy. Although some sources favor the native origin of this animal in our country.
From small local markets to industrial production
Be that as it may, cow's milk mozzarella as well as buffalo mozzarella at the beginning of their production were not a particularly refined and specific product. Being a cheese to be eaten fresh because it could not be kept for long, it was intended for small food markets. Or in any case to those adjacent to the production areas. How is mozzarella made? Let's start with the quantities. It takes 7/8 liters of milk to get a kilo. The milk is brought to a temperature of 85 degrees which is then lowered to 35 degrees. The rennet and ferments are added and left to rest. The curd is "broken" into small pieces and left to acidify.
The curd then passes into the stretching machine: a machine containing water at 85 ° which transforms it into stringy paste. It is then cut into thin strips and minced and then re-mixed, until a homogeneous paste is obtained which in turn is "cut off" in small quantities. The product is finally left in cold water and subsequently salted. Once ready, the mozzarella is packaged together with its liquid.
Mozzarella and pizza, ambassadors and symbols of Italy
In 1996 the mozzarella was recognized by the European Union as TSG, Guaranteed Traditional Specialty. A brand that protects the traditional production technique but not a specific area of origin. In the same year the buffalo mozzarella from Campania has become DOP, Protected Designation of Origin which as production areas includes some areas of Campania but also of Lazio, Puglia and a Municipality of Molise. How to taste this extraordinary product of our dairy production? Probably the best way ever is to consume it plain, accompanied by tomato, basil, oregano, extra virgin olive oil. We remember, among the infinite preparations that see it as the protagonist, pizza. Two symbolic dishes, mozzarella and pizza, from the great and best Italian gastronomic tradition.
