Imagine a path among the paths where brigands once hid and that connected old mule tracks. Streets that join valleys, passes and medieval citadels. Routes to cross in the company of your beloved Fido, with a compass in hand, enjoying the setting of a wild nature. An itinerary that smells of bleak, of knowing how to get by, of letting oneself be carried away by places where the echo of history echoes. It is located in Abruzzo, along the border with Lazio, and is called Il Cammino dei Briganti.

In the footsteps of the brigands

An unconventional path which certainly does not enjoy those comforts typical of an organized tour. You need a spirit of adventure and the ability to enjoy "the wind in your hair" to be able to face this type of itinerary. Known to all as the "Walk of the Brigands" its name speaks for itself. Along these streets the brigands passed, hid and attacked. A word that evokes a feeling of fear in the collective imagination. We "see" them attacking a carriage, robbing unfortunate passers-by and committing the most various barbarities.

The Walk of the Brigands. Image of the Lago della Duchessa, Abruzzo
 Photo source: Matteo Regazzi Creative Commons CC BY 2.0

But sometimes these characters need to be redeemed. So it is for the brigands of the Cartore Valley. Settled along the border of the then Papal State and the Bourbon Kingdom, they espoused ideals similar to those of the partisans. Riots ready to be such with the aim of repelling the attacks of the Savoyards who did not share the control projects on the territory and on the people. As free spirits you will understand why, in order to experience this itinerary in an authentic way, you need to get into the right mood.

Step by step

But what are the stages? And what do you meet along the way? First of all it must be said that it is good to arrive prepared! In fact, there is a preparatory guide to this type of "journey" which collects all the useful information in this regard. So let's start from the beginning. The itinerary is 100 km long and can be covered in a week on foot or by bicycle. We can start with Sante Marie, in close proximity to tagliacozzo, a town in the province of L'Aquila. Easily accessible by car or train, it will already allow you to enjoy a first taste of the place. The next day we start the journey towards Nesce, a medieval village which can be reached through the Salto valley.  On the third day we continue towards Cartore, the place where the famous band of brigands lived. A path that for a while is accompanied by the banks of the Salto river.

The Walk of the Brigands. Painting by G. Fattori representing an episode of the campaign against banditry
Photo Source: Giovanni Fattori - Public domain - Episode in the campaign against banditry.

The next morning we leave to arrive at Lago della Duchessa, whose name already makes us fly with the imagination! The last three days are instead dedicated to the stretches that allow you to close the "ring" of the route. Passing through Rosciolo and Casale Le Crete we return again to the "terminus", that is to Sante Marie. All along the way it is possible to stay in typical farmhouses and restaurants, previously booked! But there are those to fully experience the feeling of adventure prefers the use of the tent! Furthermore, depending on the season chosen, it is recommended to equip yourself well, especially in the winter months. Given the altitudes between 800 and 1300 meters it is possible to "meet" the snow, therefore snowshoes are strongly recommended to facilitate the step.

The Brigands' Walk: everyone's path

Among the most unique characteristics of this itinerary there is certainly the feeling that it would be good to use to live this experience! It is well known that along the mountain paths there is a widespread greeting and the exchange of a smile among passers-by. But something more happens along the path of the brigands! In fact, it develops a spirit of collective help. What the "Pilgrims”Of these ways give to nature and the earth. So among the objects to put in the backpack it is necessary not to forget a pair of scissors and a few bags.

The Walk of the Brigands. Image of a girl with backpack on her shoulders walking along a path
Photo source Pixabay

Cut weeds, brambles and thorny plants that can disturb the path. Help to bestow vegetation that outlines the itinerary a neater appearance. Collect any waste that have nothing to do with the pastoral landscape. Store everything in bags to be thrown away in the equipped villages. Then cooperate in signposting. In fact, the path has not obtained public funding, which is why everyone's collaboration is essential. Build a cairn out of stones, drive a wooden stake to favor the next walkers. Obviously doing all this with wisdom and intelligence! Therefore, the Brigands' Walk is not just a common path. It combines in itself a spirit of adventure, a desire for knowledge of the territory, in its most rural aspect, and above all respect and kindness towards others and the environment.

Il Cammino dei Briganti: bucolic itineraries with a past flavor last edit: 2019-11-28T09:53:00+01:00 da Sabrina Cernuschi

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