Orta San Giulio. That promontory which at its extremity hosts a corner of history and beauty. Il Sacro Monte dedicated to the story of St. Francis where to follow a devotional and cognitive itinerary. Then you go down, in the intimate village up to historic square.
A church, which appears as if poised on the last hill, accompanies towards the descent. Here a triumphal staircase leads towards ancient renovated shops, made of images and perfumes. And then you arrive at the coast, ready to reach the homonymous island. All this tells Orta San Giulio.
Orta San Giulio and its Sacro Monte
Nietzsche called it "one of the most evocative places in the world". For those who have already had the opportunity to visit it, these words affirm a truth. Planning a journey to discover Orta San Giulio, the Sacro Monte is certainly an excellent starting point. A long walk among the many chapels designed at the end of the 500th century and dedicated to Saint Francis. Let yourself be guided by the devotional stages and stop to enjoy the art that characterizes them. But not only. The real beauty here is given by the skill of the story. A story that moves through the visual representation, made above all of the large sculptures that animate the sacred buildings.
They are well 376 the terracotta statues which, alongside the frescoes by important authors, such as Morazzone, occupy the twenty chapels along the route. Spaces filled with a crowd of characters who tell the story of the Saint. It seems to be there, inside the scene to share an experience. All this fits into a naturalistic setting that conveys the idea of a slowed down time. In the quiet of the paths surrounded by the green of beech trees, lime trees and pines. To carve out a moment "out of the clutches of everyday life".
A last look from up here overlooking the terrace that serves as a panoramic point. The lake, with that precious sparkle, is the home of the tiny and nearby island born just 400 meters from the shore. And now the descent towards the village begins. But without first forgetting to stop at the picnic area, equipped with stone benches and tables. Regain energy by munching on a fleeting meal and then ready to go again. It begins the slope again accompanied by suggestive views. Like the one that can be admired among the intertwining of the gate of a sumptuous private villa.
The historic village
A few more steps e you arrive in the heart of Orta San Giulio. But just before we land there is a final "effort". Follow the wide stone staircase that accompanies the square. Taking it you pass in front of the parish church. Dedicated to Santa Maria Assunta it contains several fifteenth and seventeenth-century masterpieces. Like the procession of Carlo Borromeo in Milan, of Giulio Cesare Procaccini.
Leaving the sacred building behind you continue towards the historic Piazza Motta. They cheer the way small shops whose ancient signs, in characters of the past, recall that taste of decoration typical of past eras. Trattorias, taverns and shops where you can rediscover tradition. Like that laboratory that at the foot of the staircase sells lavender soaps. A courteous display of products heralds the entrance, interspersed with advertising posters in full retro style. Before reaching the lake, you can go through the streets of the village and enjoy a walk on the plains. Here too the parade of inns and businesses continues.
From simple ice cream shops to fabric shops capable of creating a strong attractive power thanks to the curated displays. Like that mannequin exhibited outside in the warm season wearing a dress made of buttons. A real unexpected work of art! In front of, sophisticated gourmet restaurants which can be accessed through intimate entrances. They appear almost hidden under woody tendrils which descend from the balcony above. And now, the lake awaits us. What we saw from above before. The walkway on which many tourists, French and German, meet, who see the place as a reason for vacation. From here they depart the boats that lead to the islet of Orta San Giulio.
The island
A small island like that baptized in memory of San Giulio. The one who, according to legend, came here to fight dragons and snakes that gripped the place. Perhaps an expression of evil, perhaps a symbolic reference to a previous pagan site. Victorious, San Giulio established his own church here, whose patronal feast takes place precisely in this period. The 31st January with liturgical celebration and transport of the Saint's relics during the procession. In addition to the basilica, there are buildings that were once exclusively of a religious nature. Example is the Bishop's Palace of Novara, former nineteenth-century seminary. Today home to the only inhabitants of the island. The Benedictine cloistered nuns. Orta San Giulio is all of this. A path that tells stories and does so with that pleasant discretion that unknowingly allows us to bring home a full-bodied baggage of curiosity and knowledge.
