Luigia Granata from Cosenza is a multifaceted artist. Famous painter and designer, her identifying clothes are true works of art, unique pieces that tell the story of Calabria, the land where she was born and where she lives with her family. Her notoriety began with her painting and the numerous exhibitions held all over the world. Her handmade clothing collections, however, arrived later, when Luigia decided to give life to the Gdesign Italy, the company that is giving her so much satisfaction. From that moment on, her creativity literally exploded.
The result is extraordinary collections that speak of culture and art, that tell stories, legends, landscapes, villages, ethnic-linguistic minorities, peoples. Her clothes are much more than simple creations: they contain a universe, made of emotions, colours, nature, sun and sea, heat, perfumes, love, life, stories. In this intense interview, exclusively for us and for you, he talks to us about himself and his fascinating and varied world. Let's get to know her together.
Luigia, she is an identity designer who tells the story of her land through her creations. What place is Calabria?
«Calabria is magic and mystery, Calabria is history and legend, Calabria is culture and traditions, Calabria is sea and mountains. It is good food and sun, it is a land of conquests and hospitality so much so that it has three recognized ethnic groups: the Occitan Waldensian, the Grecanic and the Arbëreshe."
These days you are presenting your new spring-summer 2024 collection. What inspired you to create it?
«For the new collection, since it is always about identifying clothes, the inspiration came to me from ours Sila, a vast mountain territory that covers two provinces, where there are still settlements from the period of the Sila Valorization Work, from the period of the agrarian reform desired by the Calabrian Minister of Agriculture Fausto Gullo and completed by Minister Segni. I reproduced the shacks and villages, Mancuso, Racise, Lorica, Croce di Magara, Silvana Mansio, the artificial lakes Cecita, Arvo and Ampollino. And then the town of Gioacchino da Fiore: San Gioavanni in Fiore and the abbey, the hermitages from Caccuri, Castelsilano, Federici to Camigliatello Silano. Not only Sila for the new collection, but also Pythagoras, the mosaics of the Roman villa of Casignana and the Grecanic area of Reggio Calabria; the archaeological parks and objects of discovery, stories and legends that characterize the villages of Calabria. There is an opening to other Italian cities, for which I have been commissioned to create identifying clothes and also design objects."
What do the Calabrian villages tell you and what emanates from the scents of the products of the earth that color your wonderful clothes?
«They tell ancient stories made up of references, legends, sounds, popular sayings, verbal and manual legacies handed down from mother to daughter, from father to son. And again, highly symbolic textile traditions, the "ritual" of preserves, the crops, the customs, the architecture, the views; aromas of sauce, pitta 'mpigliata, turdilli, frittole, bread, wine, 'Nduja, 'mpacchiuse potatoes, crushed olives. On my clothes are represented all the fruits of the land of Calabria recognized with IGP, IGT, from the Tropea onion to the bergamot, from the cedar to the clementines, from the Sila potatoes to the fennel of Isola Capo Rizzuto and more".
She was born as a painter who has had important exhibitions all over the world. When did you decide to also become a designer?
«I studied at the art high school and also at the art school with a focus on architecture and design, the passion is followed by the choice of studies. For me, fashion is an immediate vehicle of communication, chosen and sought by young and old, by men and women. Through clothing you express your emotions, your character. The clothes represent the status of a civilization, a specific historical period, made up of revolutions, hardships, but also of lightness, joy and transitions."
What do you remember about your first experiences abroad?
«When I went around the world and organized my vernissages, the question: “Where do you come from?” I replied: “Calabria, southern Italy”, but no one knew it or rather, few knew it and only for the 'Ndrangheta crime news. These were the years between the '80s and the beginning of the '90s, still dark years for various reasons. I fought hard (as many emigrants of the last century did) to gain esteem and respect and to make people understand that there is great excellence in our region too. I have demonstrated this through constant commitment, managing to create solid working relationships with the buyers where I purchase the fabrics, with those who print them, with those who package them. Thanks also to these cultural clothes, the beautiful and the good are strongly perceived, and people, during the fashion shows, become curious and seek information and learn to know it. Fortunately, today social media has also become a widely used communication tool and young people have approached the area and promote it by valorising food, the sea and history".
In his creations there is also a lot of history and culture and, recently, also a search for spirituality. I am referring to the creations dedicated to San Francesco di Paola, the saint much loved by the people of Cosenza...
«All the clothes and accessories are cultural garments, as I have already said, onto which the paintings are transferred, as in a storyboard of images, in succession on each new collection, which describes the most important changes that have occurred in history. In this context, naturally, the figures of the Saints appear. The Calabrian people are fervently devoted to the Madonna and to Saint Francis of Paola, they turn to the latter for graces and many claim to have received them and the saint's fame has grown over the centuries. In honor of him (and also of the Madonna del Pilerio), I represented an entire collection of over 30 items, each unique, where the sanctuaries, places of the spirit and part of the miracles are depicted. I still have to finish the tables of miracles, so the collection, also for next year, will see San Francesco di Paola as the protagonist. I am a believer and I have a gift received from God, I must safeguard this talent to promote good and beauty."
It is very linked to Sila and its extraordinary territory. How much did this magical place influence your creativity?
«Although my mother is from Mantua, she came to Calabria on tour, she chose, over 50 years ago, to live here because she fell in love with these places, where she met my father. And it is precisely thanks to them that I appreciate everything that surrounds me, which gave me a peaceful and joyful childhood and youth. As you said, a magical place, the Sila, the forest, the mountains, the air, the lakes and the rivers, the scent and beauty of the imperious pines and firs, the colors of the beech and chestnut trees in autumn and of the colorful meadows in summer; the farmers and the fields of wheat and poppies, the jonquils and the violets, the wild orchids and the mushrooms, the wolves and the squirrels, the stories of the bandits, everything, everything is inspiration for me. It is the vital essence of my creativity."
Its showroom is located in the historic center of Cosenza. Did you deliberately choose to work in the historical-artistic-legendary heart of the city?
«We were looking for a house in Cosenza and it was by chance that we saw one in via Rivocati, in an ancient building, with decorated floors and frescoed ceilings, we were fascinated by it and when we moved to Cosenza, with my husband, we decided to live here in the historic center. Over the years, my curiosity has made me discover an infinite world, unknown even to the citizens of Cosenza themselves.
I was captivated by so much history and architectural beauty, by the neighborhood life that was sometimes perhaps "picturesque", but characterizing, for me a new, interesting and inspiring reality and therefore I chose to create the laboratory here too. My showroom is an "artistic living room" where we meet and discuss art and culture, associations and project proposals to enhance identity markers. You enter the entrance hall of the building and are greeted by a gallery of paintings, a permanent exhibition that follows the flights of stairs along all the walls of the building."
What did your experience with Don Mazzi's Exodus community leave you with?
«Strong motivation to give yourself to others, receiving great emotions in return. Don Antonio Mazzi's idea has always been to train his educators and collaborators constantly, also sacrificing himself and creating empathy with others in need. As far as I'm concerned, in many cases, making art in the community has opened emotional windows, has stimulated creativity in the "guest kids" of Casa Exodus, young people and adults who have fallen into the abyss of drug addiction, to whom life has, however, given an opportunity for rebirth, a concrete way out of it. In the laboratories, sculptures took shape which in some cases represented the object/subject of the malaise, the same together with the author, was "told and analysed" with the support of the team and the psychologist, leading the boy to focus on the problem and following the method to deal with it. I believe it was the strongest and most significant experience of my career as an artist. I was in contact with kids who were the age of my daughters, identifying with the mothers but also understanding their hardships, I felt useful for someone, with the help of my skills and above all my gift."
Her fabulous career has allowed her to receive numerous awards. What is the one you care about most?
«They are all important to me, from the first to the last: from the Dioscuri Prize of 1986, to the Newyork Prize of '92 and Miami '94, to the “Noi che L'Arte” Bari 2018 prize, to the “Città del Sole” prize awarded this year from the Rotary of Gioia Tauro, to all the excellence awards of Calabria received in recent years, up to the last one a few weeks ago "Artists Excellence of Calabria", received in Castrovillari. Each award has its own story. The assignment is certainly dictated by great motivation for those who give it, and heartfelt recognition by those who receive it. Certainly the OMA Award, received in Florence in 2018, assigned to me as an Identity Designer, creator of the cultural dress by the Art Crafts Observatory, an instrumental body of the CR Foundation of Florence, was what confirmed and rewarded my creative choices, often take risks in a difficult world like that of fashion. So I thank everyone immensely for every single recognition that has been given to me."
Who is Luigia Granata in real life?
«A very curious dreamer of the world around her, extremely stubborn, an eclectic artist, a sentimental mother, a reserved, strong woman who knows how to be generous and empathetic towards others, a grateful wife, a daughter full of love for her mother, a friend who embraces and welcomes and who would like to give more and more, a tireless worker, a cheerful person who is also strict with herself, a citizen proud of being Italian, but very critical of the system, a reader, a lover of nature, a grateful person because he has received a great gift from God and loves Christ more than anything."
What else would you like to accomplish?
«My head is a bottomless “blender”, I could and would like to do an infinite number of things too create a village of ancient art and crafts while respecting the environment and human beings (also repopulating one of our abandoned villages), where traveling artists land, a creative workshop open to all, a sort of incubator of ideas. After all, Italians are a people of artists, poets and sailors. And lastly, seeing my cultural clothes worn by many people, walking on all the streets of the world."
(Photo: Luigia Granata, Facebook Page)
