Treviso is one of the seven capitals of the Veneto, a small town (just over 80.000 inhabitants) but in recent years repeatedly celebrated by important newspapers such as valid alternative to Venice. If you are passing by for an afternoon and want to know it a little better, here is the itinerary you could take.
From the walls to the canals of Treviso
Arriving by car in Treviso, you could park in the northern area near the historic center, at the former skating rink. From there in two steps you take the short dirt road that leads to the historic walls of the city. Those we see today are not the oldest but were built in the sixteenth century by the Republic of Venice, which in that period hastened to fortify its mainland cities.
In this still well-preserved stretch, the people of Treviso love to walk, take the dog for a walk and go for a run. We descend from the walls and walk along via San Parisio up to Church of St. Francis, of imposing Romanesque architecture. Sometimes small exhibitions and activities for the public are set up in the cloister. Turning right, the San Francesco bridge allows us to cross the Cagnan and land in the fish market. A plaque on the building opposite reminds us that Giovanni Comisso, our important writer, was born in this district in 1895.
Treviso is compared to Venice precisely because its center is crossed by numerous canals. In its Divine Comedy Dante Alighieri he mentions this city as there "where Sile and Cagnan are accompanied", referring precisely to the main waterways, which are here and there accompanied by mills. Following the river you arrive onfish market island, where there is the fish market.
Break at the museum
Crossing the fish market island and taking some pictures of the large mill, you will find yourself at the crossroads with via san Leonardo. Depending on the time you have available, from here in five minutes you can get to two of the most important museums in the area: the Civic Museum of Santa Caterina and the National Museum of the Salce Collection. The first is part of the Treviso Civic Museums circuit and collects important works from archeology to the eighteenth century (Cima da Conegliano, Giovanni Bellini, Tiziano, Jacopo Bassano, Francesco Guardi, Rosalba Carriera and others).
Inside it is also possible to admire the splendid cycle of frescoes dedicated to Sant'Orsola made by Tomaso da Modena in the mid-fourteenth century. The National Museum of the Salce Collection instead, it showcases, through temporary exhibitions, Nando Salce's precious collection of over 25.000 advertising posters from the Belle Époque to the XNUMXs. It is one of the largest poster collections in Europe and the largest in Italy.
Architecture of today and yesterday
Returning to our route, we walk along via San Leonardo and go around the church to make our entrance, through the recently restored square of Santa Maria dei Battuti, to the so-called Latin neighborhood. This is the university area of Treviso (seat of the Ca 'Foscari University of Venice) and was inaugurated not too long ago. It was 2006 and it bears the signature of a great Italian architect, Paolo Portoghesi. In summer, especially the large square of Humanism is colored with activities open to the public, from yoga to folk dances.
Let's now take vicolo san Pancrazio and go back to the medieval heart of the city, full of narrow alleys like this one. We are therefore in via Martiri della Libertà and taking it to the left we arrive at the Loggia of the Knights, another important testimony of the medieval municipality. Across via Indipendenza we find ourselves in front of the Palazzo dei Trecento, a historic political center, which acts as a hinge with the living room of the city, Piazza dei Signori.
The two great churches of Treviso
Never forget to look in the air: the Treviso buildings were richly frescoed and still today, despite the degradation caused by smog, there are important traces of it. For example along Calmaggiore, the ancient decumanus of the city, both on the palaces and along the arcades. In fact, even the arcades are a characteristic and distinctive sign of Treviso. Let's dive back into the alleys through via Barberia, an area full of bars and taverns where you can plan your aperitif stop with a shot or coffee. Continuing along via Ortazzo and via Avogari you reach piazza Vittoria.
Instead, take via San Nicolò to reach the largest church in Treviso: San Nicolò, in fact, a splendid example of Gothic-Lombard architecture. Consider a stop at the adjacent Sala del Capitolo, where you will find the first fresco in the world showing a pair of glasses, also by Tomaso da Modena. We are located north-west of the historic center and taking via Filzi we look out over the Città Giardino district, a trendy and very green residential area. Through Viale Cesare Battisti you reach the Duomo, the second largest church in the city and heavily bombed by the allies on 7 April 1944. We will finally return to the starting point through via Canova and via fra 'Giocondo.
