Bisato, or eel, is a very special fish that is also farmed in the Po Delta. It is part of our culinary culture in the Polesine area and is considered a traditional food. It resembles a snake, with a very strong jaw and small but sharp teeth. It has no scales, but is smooth and decidedly slimy. It is considered both freshwater and saltwater, with a peculiar reproductive cycle, so much so that it is uncontrollable.
The eggs are laid in the Sargasso Sea, off the coast of Bermuda in the Atlantic Ocean, where males and females reproduce and then both die. The fertile eggs hatch into larvae, which, after three years, reach Europe via the Gulf Stream. When they finally reach our shores, they resemble small glass eels. They swim up rivers and become sexually mature after about ten years. The eel is disappearing, due to the long journey it must make to return home and also to pollution.
The farmer's diet
Dark in color, black or greenish, with a white or yellowish belly. The female is very large and is called capitone. Their meat is white and fatty but incredibly flavorful. They can only be caught during a certain period of the year, which is why they are marinated in vinegar, so they can be preserved and eaten year-round. This tradition is considered centuries-old. In fact, there are even factories in the Delta that perform this very process.
Throughout the Middle Ages, farmers ensured a decidedly varied diet. Indeed, there were countless bodies of water. Fishing was everywhere, not only in rivers but also in ditches, inland lakes, lagoons, drainage ditches, marshes, and canals. If there was nothing to eat at home, many would take used chick cages and place them in the ditch. It was certain that something would be caught and brought to the table.
Fried biscuits
INGREDIENTS:
1 kg of small eels;
200 g of type 00 flour;
30 g of white polenta flour;
fry oil.
METHOD:
Gut and wash the eels. Drain them to remove any excess water. If the eels are too long, you can make slits in them to better manage the flour mixture during frying. Combine the two flours, mixing thoroughly until smooth. The polenta flour adds crunchiness to this seemingly simple dish. Dredge the eels in flour, sifting through a sieve if possible to remove any excess.
I recommend frying in plenty of hot oil, preferably peanut oil. The reason is simple: it holds up well to cooking because it has a very high smoke point, like olive oil. It's best to use a pan with high sides. Before serving, place it on paper towels to absorb excess oil. Experiment with the composition of the dish, adding ingredients like lettuce and lemon. Remember, serve bisato piping hot! It absolutely shouldn't be a dish prepared ahead of time and then reheated.
Enjoy your meal and have fun!
Cover photo of the Giallo Zafferano blog.
